Soaking up some rays in Clearwater, Florida.
The pleasant acidity of freshly squeezed orange juice washed the remains of sleep out of my system. After getting off the two and a half hour flight (which seemed like ten minutes to me, since I was in a REM state sleep for its entirety), the glass of highlighter toned liquid was the only thing that kept me awake. I’m currently in college in New York City, so sleep is often last on my list of priorities, and once I get a taste of it, it’s hard to not slip into hibernation mode. However, that was certainly not an option on this brief trip to Florida, and my mom was with me to make sure I was alert at all times. Actually, she was the main reason I had traveled down the east coast of the U.S. for my spring break, instead of jetting somewhere off the grid. Sick of the snow piles the New York winter typically brings, she was contemplating becoming a permanent snow bird, and thus schlepped me to the Sunshine State to help her neighborhood hunt. Florida, I thought: oranges, overpopulated beaches, the tourist trap Disney World has evolved into, and tolls upon tolls in Orlando. You could only imagine my excitement.
I hunted for decent lifestyle bloggers in Florida to give me inspiration to do something other than surfing every day (not that I would be terribly upset with that, but options are nice). However, there was not a single interesting guide to be found, and having previously exhausted the typical tourist route, I went into this trip with my own loosely crafted itinerary and low hopes.
After an hour of fruitless searching through the hotel’s rack of overrated attraction pamphlets, I decided to start where I felt most comfortable: the ocean. An hour and a half drive from Orlando brought us to the lovely Cocoa Beach, where I first fell in love with surfing. Besides some fun small waves for beginners (and thanks to the recent El Nino storm, a pretty decent swell made for the braver set), the surf town has plenty to do for those that don’t feel like paddling out. Cocoa Beach is one of the less populated beach areas in Florida. Besides the annual Easter Surf festival on the pier, there are eco-tours such as charter fishing and kayaking if you’re still looking to get out on the water. Cocoa Village is also full of eclectic shops boasting handmade goods with global influences, cute cafes, and ice cream shops galore to beat the Floridian heat. However, if you’re looking to grab a bite after a long day in the sun and want to stay near the beach, I highly recommend Thai Fuku. While it’s not the fanciest eatery in the world, both portions and flavor of the dishes are served up in sizable amounts. My meal of choice: the Lobster Volcano roll (lobster tempura; you pretty much get the whole lobster) and a thai iced tea (one of the best I’ve ever had).
A clouded sunset over Cocoa Beach.
Admiring the sunset post-surf session.
The evening after my surf session left my mom and I tired, but not yet ready to call it a night. We headed back to the Orlando area and I researched low-key outings around the hotel. I hadn’t been to the movie theater in quite some time, but I decided it would be the perfect way to end the evening. A regular showing wasn’t going to cut it though, since all of the current movie releases seemed vastly unappealing to me. The Enzian Independent Theater in Maitland, Florida answered all of my high-brow film preferences. A pastel green colored facade framed by a forest of tropical vegetation, the grounds themselves made this a visit-worthy spot. There is even a restaurant with outdoor seating adjacent to the theater house, which also caters to the filmgoers once they’re inside the building during screenings. Anyone who knows me well is aware of my adoration for a good animation flick. Luckily, a series of Oscar nominated shorts were playing at the time of our arrival. While they all weren’t kid-friendly, the raspberry beignets I ordered for dessert made up for my slight horror towards the more violent scenes. I thoroughly enjoyed the atmosphere of the Enzian; it’s basically the classy version of Netflix & chill (although I was there with my mom…so awkward reference…but I think the multiple couples surrounding us would agree with me).
My ticket to one of the most memorable movie house experiences of my life.
The next morning I awoke once again looking to do something active. I remembered pinning a Florida state park to my travel board on Pinterest, so I logged into my somewhat-abandoned account and found an image of picturesque looking Wekiwa Springs State Park, only a forty-five minute drive from downtown Orlando. When we arrived the fresh air of the springs and tree-lined hiking trails officially awakened my senses. I didn’t feel like swimming in the springs, and the amount of people that were taking a dip in the shallow natural pool eliminated any attraction to that portion of the park. So, I decided to test my rowing skills and rent a kayak! As I made my way down to the loading dock, the bushes thickened before opening to a swampy area. Signs to “beware of crocodiles” had my parents questioning my sanity, but I still happily boarded the neon green vessel for one and pushed myself off the shore. Paddling around the varying depths of the swamps, I occasionally saw flickers of movements around the cattails, but the sunshine dancing off of the water’s surface eliminated all of my worries. Despite the few sand fly bites I acquired during the hour long rental, this was one of the most serene moments of my entire week.
Kayaking through the swamps.
An abandoned canoe in the shallows.
We decided we were done with Orlando, and my mom decided she couldn’t call the iconic Floridian city home. Thus, we moved southwest to Clearwater. One of the main reasons we decided to add this beach-focused locale to our itinerary was to visit Winter, the dolphin whose story had been featured in the film Dolphin Tale, at The Clearwater Marine Aquarium. The aquarium first began as a sanctuary and marine hospital for animals in need along the coast, but with the attention from the movie and the introduction of more dolphins to their care, they have become known for their porpoises. While it is a great spot for tourists looking for an entertaining ecological-type attraction, I was slightly disappointed with my experience here. The entire sanctuary has been transformed into a “Winter wonderland”, if you will. The second after guests receive their tickets in a booth/gift shop littered with prop lookalikes from the movie, they are shuttled over to the aquarium via a ferry carrying the dolphin’s namesake. Upon arrival, a souvenir picture with a replica of Winter’s prosthetic tail is mandatory before following the crowd into the dolphin pool area. En route to the dolphins, there are many viewing points to observe the sea turtles and other marine organisms that the aquarium is taking care of. There are even facts about the medical procedures that the animals are currently undergoing. However, these areas are empty. This is one circumstance where the focus of a marine conservation organization has been skewed. Viewing the aquarium as it is now, it is almost impossible to imagine how they made any revenue before the premier of Dolphin Tale. It is also hard to see how they can fully focus their attention on the animals in their hospital when there are so many people flowing through the space on a daily basis – therefore undermining their whole founding mission to fully devote themselves to the care of marine creatures in need.
After being a participant in that ecotourist bred atmosphere, I was craving a more natural connection with marine life, so I made my way to Clearwater’s North Beach, just in time for golden hour. I shuffled along the sand towards the dock, eager to get to the lookout on the water before the sun dipped below the horizon. I made it more than halfway towards the end of the wooden structure after weaving my way through the crowds and local vendors before I was stopped by a metal fence; “25₵ to pass” read a sign above a metered box. Sighing, I pulled out my wallet and dropped the required change into the container, telling myself I didn’t walk over two miles of beach to turn around because of a mundane fee. It was absurd to think of how many people had come through the same gate as I did and payed their small token. Guess that’s why Clearwater doesn’t need tolls on every corner like Orlando! Nevertheless, my shiny quarter donation was rewarded with one of the most stunning sunsets I have ever witnessed. The wooden boardwalk was stained with salt, and it jutted out into the metallic turquoise waters whose hues were melding with the cotton candy pastel shades of the sky. A brown pelican soared down from the clouds and came to land on the railing a yard’s width away from me, and squawked in a sort of greeting. Together we stared at the fading glowing orb until it darkened the celestial sphere with its absence.
My 25 cent sunset.
Top-notch sunset watching buddy!!!
The next day, higher winds in the morning called for entertainment indoors, so we made our way to the Salvador Dali museum in nearby St. Pete for a dose of culture. Though the museum is not that large, the architecture of the building itself is a sight to behold. The irregular shapes of its mirrored exterior are reminiscent of a Dali painting. The gardens surrounding the structure are just as beautifully arranged, with some of Dali’s most memorable works, such as the melting clock from “The Persistence of Memory” are presented in sculpture. The exhibits are not extensive, but that is due to Dali’s major works being scattered around the world at notable art galleries such as MoMA. However, there is always a specialty exhibit on display, and at the time of my visit it was “Disney and Dali”. The collection analyzed and compared the similar upbringings and interests of Walt Disney and Salvador Dali. In the latter half it showcased a short animation project they had worked on together, and how both of their styles were complementary of each other. It presented a side of Walt Disney’s work that I, even as a self-proclaimed Disney Dork, did not know much about. The museum also gave insight to Dali’s earlier works, which resemble more of an impressionist style rather than surrealist. His still life pieces, such as the one pictured below entitled “The Basket of Bread” are just as stunning and attentive to detail as his more contemporary paintings. Walking through the museum doesn’t take much more than two and a half hours, even when looking into each section in depth.
Dali's "The Basket of Bread".
The exterior of the Dali Museum - a work of art itself.
Before my mom and I left the area, we grabbed a bite at Kings Street Food. Despite its namesake, the joint does not actually sell food on the street, but rather street food in a retro restaurant setting. The interior has qualities of diners in the 50s; black and white tiled floors, leather upholstered seating in a cheery mint tone, and ribbed silver details throughout. There is also a lovely outdoor seating area with bright green turf and picnic tables for those that would like to feel as though they were actually having a meal in a park from an imaginary food truck. The food itself is top-notch. Their grilled cheeses are gaining traction in the local community, but I think the attention should be focused on their milkshakes. A decent selection of creative flavors ensures a favorite for everyone, although I have to give my vote to the Peanut Butter Shake. A concoction of the addictive nut butter and banana, topped off with a cloud of whipped cream, graham cracker crumbles, and a maraschino cherry – it reminded me of a shake my dad used to make for me as a kid called “Peanut Punch”, which was also chocked full peanut butter (if you haven’t gotten the hint, I kinda have a thing for PB).
Our meal at Kings Street Food.
It was only mid-afternoon after lunch, so upon a family friend’s suggestion we ventured to a replica of a small Greek fishing village known for multiple wooden storefronts stocked with natural sea sponges of all shapes and sizes. The village of Tarpon Springs left me wondering if I had actually been in Florida for the past week. A warm breeze rippled through the fabric of the Greek flags flying off of all the boats parked up against the dock, sponges drying in the sunshine off of wires draped through the masts. Most of the businesses in this area specialize in either selling sponges, products that emphasize the health benefits of the sponges (sea salt scrubs, natural soaps, etc.), souvenirs covered in the national colors of Greece, or art made by Greek artists. There are also many bakeries carrying platters of baklava and other Greek sweets. Unfortunately I was still stuffed from lunch so I was not able to eat my own body weight in the flaky, honey-doused pastries, but the line coming out the doors of the confectionary establishments had me considering it anyways. The small town gets a lot of foot traffic for being such a specific type of attraction. It allows locals who come to visit to take a Mediterranean vacation of sorts without leaving the state.
Spongebob is that you?!
The day after was our last in the south, and thus we drove back to Orlando to get to the airport – but not without stopping in Tampa to visit Oxford Exchange. One of the few things Floridian bloggers had a say about, the restaurant / coffee & tea shop / novelty gift store / bookstore / lounge space is one of the standout locations in Tampa for those looking for an upscale hangout spot. Each of the rooms in the space felt open with high ceilings, giving the illusion of a larger room. We were seated on the back patio for a late brunch. The patio is actually indoors, but due to a paneled glass ceiling the diners feel as though they are in a greenhouse. This effect is enhanced by the multiple wide-leaf potted plants placed strategically across the tiled floor. The marble tables fit in nicely with the mostly white, clean look of the setting. I had the matcha tea lemonade (because of course I had to find my matcha fix over break) and their Seasonal Chopped salad sans chicken – a.k.a. THE BEST salad I’ve ever had in my life: romaine, spinach, arugula, corn, chopped dates, goat cheese, pumpkin seeds, and a citrus cilantro vinaigrette. Simple, yes, but it was done so well. The patio area is the only room in the building that has a modern theme. The rest of it has rustic wooden touches throughout. This added to the atmosphere while shopping in the gift and bookstore, which had so many cute finds that I just felt like handing over all my money! From speciality chocolate to handcrafted jewelry there is surely something for everyone. My personal favorite was their selection of greeting cards sporting ironic quotes such as “I hate it when I think I’m buying organic vegetables and then I get home and find they’re just regular donuts”. I think that’s been relatable to everyone at some point – I know it’s me on a daily basis. The bookstore at Oxford Exchange is a great place to find a gift for the bookworm in your life, or yourself! There is an entire table stacked with prettily bound editions of the classics decorated with embroidered borders. Bestsellers of fiction, travel, science and other genres were displayed on separate stands according to their content, and the staff pick was positioned neatly by the cashier. Across the way from the bookstore stood a small Warby Parker shop. I’ve been a die-hard fan of the eyewear brand ever since I got my own pair this past summer, and their well-crafted “Stockton” frames made me less self-conscious about my terrible eyesight. They also have a great selection of sunglasses in styles and shapes that are not often seen, made out of the same material with the same high-quality of their normal eyeglass frames. After checking out the lounge space, equipped with some of the most comfortable looking sofas I have ever seen, I switched out of my contacts and into my Warby Parkers in preparation for the long journey back to Orlando, and then home. I assured myself that the next time I was in the state, Oxford Exchange would surely be on the list of places to return.
Our meal at Oxford Exchange (ft. my favorite snapchat filter for food).
The pretty patio dining area at Oxford Exchange.
As I boarded my JFK bound plane, I left with different sentiments towards Florida than the ones I came with. Although it is hard to find a way out of the tourist infested spots, there are plenty of areas that cater to the local set, and often in classier ways than expected. New York will always be number one in my heart, but I guess it won’t be so bad calling Florida my occasional home.