The view from the front porch of my cabana on Blackbird Caye.
Rays of morning light streamed through the cheap plastic blinds of the window directly in front of my sun – drenched face. I slowly opened my heavy eyelids, and felt around my bunk bed for my phone that had buried itself in the cotton-blend sheets. 6:04am. Climbing out of bed, I struggled not to hit my head on the rotating ceiling fan. As I slid down to the peeling wood floors, I checked to see if I’ve woken anyone else, then quietly opened the rickety lock on our fragile screen door without my cabana-mates noticing. Outside, I was greeted by a rising sun placed in a rose hued sky and a sterling blue ocean that got lighter and lighter, revealing tidal pools and deep points as the sun grew higher in the sky. This is how I started my days in Blackbird Caye, Belize.
Last summer, I had the opportunity to head down to Belize on a National Geographic Student Expedition. Most of our time was spent snorkeling the turquoise waters, but while on land we got a crash course in Belizean culture. On Blackbird Caye, a remote area of the country in Turneffe Atoll and my personal favorite, the Oceanic Society was home for the six days we were there. We slept in beachfront cabanas that had seen better days, though their state only added to their charm and simplicity. Our temporary lounging area was a thatched roof palapa, accessed by crossing a stretch of beach littered with hermit crabs of all sizes (shoes were a must). In between playing pickup games of soccer and cuddling with the resident island dogs, Duke and Camilla, we ate our meals in the palapa: fry bread, fresh juices, snapper about five different ways and the spiciest Belizean hot sauce, they all became comfort foods.
If you took a nap on one of the palapa couches, you'd wake up to this lovely thatched roof.
Duke the island dog takes a break in the late afternoon sun.
After Blackbird Caye, our itinerary led us to Caye Caulker. If I had to sum this island up in one word, it would be puppies. Lots and lots of puppies. Dogs roamed the streets, and since there was only one shelter on the island, most of these animals won’t ever have homes. I did get the chance to visit this shelter, and they are doing a wonderful job with the animals they are able to take in, keeping them well fed and happy. Speaking of well fed creatures, in Caye Caulker we were able to experience a fancier alternative to the Beliziean fare we had in Blackbird Caye. A taco dinner at 88 West Restaurant and Bar was a delicious welcome meal to the island. The restaurant had an urban feel to it, but one look out the dock at the indescribable sunset, and you knew for sure that you were in paradise. Our farewell dinner was held at Habanero’s Restaurant, I can’t remember exactly what I ordered, but I do remember it being excellent and the plate presentation was very photogenic. I sampled some of my guide’s lionfish while I was here and that was also cooked exceptionally well. Lionfish may seem exotic to most people, but in the tropical waters of the Atlantic they are an invasive species. As a result, they are popping up on menus more frequently, and they’re quite tasty so I would highly recommend making a meal out of them if you’re looking for a sustainable fish to munch on. Apart from having a great foodie scene, art in Caye Caulker is alive and well. Street artists produce everything from vibrant watercolor masterpieces to beautiful jewelry carved from shells, and they’ll happily tell you about their careers if you ask.
One of the puppies at the shelter on Caye Caulker.
This goes for most of the locals in Belize too; they all have stories to tell and are delighted to share them. I learned so many things on this trip just by talking to people; from interesting stories about self-treated snake bites in Blackbird Caye, to knowing to stay far, far away from barracudas in Caye Caulker. I know that when I go back to Belize, my number one reason will surely be the friendly faces I’d see upon returning.
A sunset with storm clouds brewing offshore. Taken from the dock of 88 West Restaurant & Bar.