The red rooftops of Lisbon.
The aroma of pastéis de nata wafted out of the bakeries lining the streets as I strolled towards Chiado. The soft sunshine extended its reach to graze my cheekbones, only seldomly shaded by the passing of a tram car through the narrow streets.
It was my first morning in Lisbon, and I was en route to a free walking tour. I stopped to purchase my first Portuguese pastry for breakfast. As I waited for my guide to arrive, I ate the sweet treat on the steps of a monument while watching the Saturday afternoon unfold.
One of the historic trams of Lisbon.
The walking tour began with a ride on the historic Tram 28. Trams were a popular form of transport in the old days of Lisbon. There are five tram lines, and they all run on the same streets that cars use, often causing traffic due to their frequent breakdowns. Nowadays with more efficient options like Lisbon’s well organized metro system, the locals tend to leave the trams for the tourists to enjoy. The wire-guided vehicles lend an almost physics-defying character to the city, winding through tight corners where they should probably come to a screeching halt. Yet they carry on; slowly, but with charm.
I had the opportunity to walk through almost the entire city during the four hour tour. Minimalistic graffiti is present on many of the walls. The phrase “pura poesia” (pure poetry) was a common mark, and as I stood on a lookout point admiring the red rooftops, I decided it was a fitting label. There is a sharp distinction between the old and new city that is visible from a height; anywhere there is a prominent green space indicates a new portion of the city, since parks weren’t a part of the city plan during its original construction.
When I shot this frame, I was caught between focusing on the vibrant blooms overhead, or the mark of poetry in the lower left corner.
I squeezed my way through the narrow streets of Alfama, known for its many Fado cafes and restaurants, where live Fado music is performed nightly. Although this local genre of music is integral to Portuguese culture, many of the older generations are not fans. They see it as a soundtrack of the fascist regime, and a dark time in their history. Despite this background, it still continues to be popular among the tourists, thus the locals perform and promote it to bring in revenue.
Street views in the old town.
Much of Portuguese life is dependent on the tourist industry, especially in Lisbon. The actual center of the city is nearly deserted of residential life; the economic crisis that is occurring has made it difficult for many locals to stay in the city due to rising rent prices, and they have been forced to move to the suburbs. Another sign of this recession can be seen at the flea market. There isn’t much organization to the way the “booths” are aligned, and some sellers only have a blanket to display their wares. While some people sell a specific type of good, like leather bags, others had a strange mix. I even noticed someone selling a neon light pharmacy sign that seemed to have been quite literally ripped from the building, with the wires still frayed. My guide explained that most people just take whatever they find, off of buildings or the streets, in hopes that it will be appealing to tourists. One of the most common objects that are taken from public property are the beautiful mosaics that decorate the buildings. The exteriors of houses used to be covered in mosaic tiles during the early days of Lisbon, but since the economic crisis hit many have been stealing the tiles to sell. This left the buildings patchy, and many of them have a mix of tiles as a replacement since most of the original patterns are no longer produced.
A building with patchwork mosaic tiles due to refurbishment.
Although many of the people here are not rich, their simple, relaxed take on life left me nostalgic for a period I wasn't alive to witness. I can only imagine how grand the city must have been during its golden days.
Nearby the main flea market area and throughout the city there are a multitude of churches. Throughout their years, these buildings have seen many changes, both in design and in ruling religion. Though they are churches today, they have been mosques when the Moors were in power. Due to their fluctuation in identity, many churches possess a striking combination of both romanesque and baroque elements. Seeing an ornate, gothic altar encased in an overwhelmingly plain building is a sight to see, even for the non-religious. Today, most of Lisbon’s population is Catholic.
An example of a baroque altar with romanesque surroundings.
After the long, but informative walking tour through the limestone streets, I decided to call it a night. A few friends noticed I was in Lisbon over social media and gave me some must-see suggestions for the next day, so I followed that advice to the neighboring town of Belém.
My first stop without hesitation was Pastéis de Belém: home of the original pastéis de nata. Although the bakery does have savory food, most people take a seat to have heaping pile of the traditional Portuguese pastries fresh from the oven. I had a few over a cappuccino and a small glass of fortified port wine. The rich desserts were a perfect pairing to balance out the slight acidity of the wine and the bitterness of the cappuccino.
Fresh pastéis de nata, hot from the oven!!
My little batch!!
After watching the workers pop out multiple little pastries per minute with love, I headed across the street to the Jeronimo Monastery as the sky began to cloud over. I waited in an extensive line to get my student discount ticket, and then I finally entered the UNESCO world heritage site. There is a large courtyard in the center of the monastery that is surrounded by intricately carved stone arches. The rain cut the crowd that would’ve been there in fairer weather in half, and created a peaceful setting.
Partial exterior view of the Jeronimo Monastery.
Inside the corridors.
A peep into the courtyard.
I was going to attempt to walk to the Tower of Belém, but just as I crossed the street and the 25 Avril Bridge was in sight, the light rain transformed into a torrential downpour. My umbrella chose that exact moment to be the most difficult inanimate object on the face of the earth and I was forced to hop into an Uber and abandon my time in Belém in order to avoid being soaked.
The day had clearly directed me towards rainy day activities, so I stopped off at the Museu do Chiado (where they also had student pricing, yay for higher education!). The exhibits in this museum range from modern sculpture work to a few impressionist-style paintings, ensuring that there is something for every art lover, despite the museum not being the largest in the world. I actually had to walk to another building to see a temporary modern exhibit, but it was worth it; the motion picture medium and fluctuating lighting made for an emotionally piercing experience, similar to the one I had in Paris at Palais de Tokyo. This similarity may have had to do with the fact that there was a minimal amount of people on the day of my visit to MNAC, as the situation was in Paris.
After the museum, I got some shopping done at La Vida Portuguesa. This specialty souvenir store only carries goods crafted in Portugal, and they have EVERYTHING. Ceramic plates with quaint graphics? Check. Elegant stationary pieces? Check. Warm, traditional Portuguese blankets, locally blended perfumes and soaps, an entire wall dedicated to Portuguese sardines? Check, check, check. The layout of the store is impeccable and the staff are incredibly helpful and friendly as well. The day was ending but before I headed back to my hotel, I stopped into the charming clothing boutique, Lua de Champagne. The whimsical pieces carried by the small business is translated into the overall interior design of the store, creating a cutesy yet elegant setting. I picked out an ivory, chiffon, short-sleeved blouse for myself and went on my way.
A display table in Lua de Champagne.
My flight out wasn’t scheduled until late in the evening, so I took the opportunity to quickly visit the top of the Rua Augusta Arch and the Time Out Lisbon Market. The arch was built to commemorate the city’s reconstruction after a devastating earthquake in 1755. Its silhouette is similar to the iconic Arc de Triomphe from the ground, but on top its a vantage point for all the city, and the nearby seaside. On a sunny day, during a slow hour, it is the perfect spot to escape the pedestrian shopping area below.
The arch from below...
...and above.
The Time Out Market surpassed my lunch expectations!! The space is such a creative concept; more than a handful of the city’s best and most alternative eateries, along with a concert venue and a mini La Vida Portuguesa all in one space. I treated myself to a dish from Chef Henrique Sá Pessoa: a 62° egg with truffled mashed potatoes and asparagus. I believe the dish traditionally comes with some type of meat added in it, but your favorite veggie lover obviously decided to opt out, yet it was still one of the most delicious meals of the weekend.
The entrance to the market.
Lunchtime at the market!
As I left Lisbon, I realized I came away with more appreciation for the city than expected. After spending a few days mentally reviewing my trip and following some Lisbon-based bloggers, it is certain that I will have to visit this muse of a city again to experience all that I missed and more. Till then, Lisboa, obrigado.
